Post by Budgiebonkers on Dec 1, 2013 21:01:01 GMT
Selecting a Budgie Pair: If you are going to breed, it is important to select a healthy pair of Budgies. The pair should have no respiratory problems, healthy plumage, and no nasal or eye discharges. A healthy Budgie will also be alert and active. A Budgie with ruffled feathers and sitting alone from flock members should not be used. If there is no reaction towards humans, avoid considering him as a breeder bird. Also, young Budgies should not be used. They can easily develop problems if forced into breeding very early. For example, a young hen that is forced into breeding can develop many complications such as being egg bound (an illness that does not allow the female to pass the egg and usually results in death). Young males will be infertile.
Picking mature parakeets for your breeding program can be done by following these three rules.
1.) The eyes of mature parakeets will exhibit white irises.
2.) Their beaks will be solid colors of brown, beige, or tan. Young Budgies will have small patches of black on their beaks.
3.) The cere, or skin above the nose or nostrils, will not be pink. A male Budgie’s cere will be blue and a female’s will be brown.
If the age of the Budgie is still not evident or you are unsure, ask the breeder who sold you the bird. Most breeders keep detailed records of their birds.
Budgie Breeding Supplies:
Breeding Cage
Nesting Box
Bedding (Pine Shavings, Avoid Cedar Because It Will Cause Respiratory Problems)
Brooder (Incubator)
When choosing the right supplies for your Budgie, be sure to think ahead. Thinking ahead means using equipment that can easily be cleaned and disinfected. A breeding cage should be used with trays that can be removed, a grill to avoid the birds from stepping on their feces, and doors for easy access.
The nesting box should be chosen carefully. The ideal box is one that can be hung outside the cage for easy access to the babies. A breeder often needs to band the chick’s legs and observe the development of the babies. A nesting box that is hung inside the cage should not be used. These boxes are quickly used as platforms for the courting parents, and as a result, covered with feces.
The bedding of the nesting box is also important. It provides traction for the babies and prevents any growth deformities such as splayed legs (legs that grow outward rather then their natural position). The bedding should be cedar or pine shavings. Some breeders choose to change the bedding once the chicks start to feather out; however, this can cause the mother to abandon the nest. If the bedding is changed, it is important to block the entrance hole so the mother cannot enter the nesting box. Place the babies inside a brooder and quickly remove the bedding and scrape out any droppings. When the nesting box is clean, put the babies back and keep an eye on them to ensure the mother has resumed her duties.
The perches and dishes should also be arranged correctly. Bowls should not be placed under perches and perches not above bowls. Contaminated food and water can cause serious croup infections with the chicks.
Budgie Courting & Mating: Once the Budgies have been selected and the proper equipment has been purchased, the birds should start to court. During the courting process, the male Budgie will start to vocalize and dance. This dance and ritual consists of the throat feathers ruffling up, bobbing of the head, and walking back and forth near his mate. This dance excites the female and she begins looking for a cavity to nest. This process will repeat until the female allows the male to mate with her.When the female parakeet is ready to mate, her head will arch back, her wings will slightly open, and her eyes will pin. The male will mount the female and copulating will begin. The female will usually lay her eggs a week or two after mating.
Budgie Incubating and Hatching: The clutch can consist of two to six eggs. Some females will lay more; however, any more than six should be removed. During the duration of the incubation, which is 18 days, the male will feed the hen while she sits. Some males will sit inside the box with the hen. Around 16 or 17 days into incubation, the eggs will have small cracks made by the chicks (called the pip hole). This means hatching can be expected shortly. The chicks are likely to hatch 24 hours after the first pip hole.
Budgie Chicks: Once the chicks hatch, the mother will sit on them. She will begin feeding them a few hours after hatching. The food she feeds them is a concoction of enzymes and cells packed with nutrients to help develop their immune systems. During this period, the chicks will experience rapid growth and will soon start to feather as the weeks pass. The father will asset in feeding the chicks as well. As they get older and can produce their own heat, the female will spend more hours outside the nesting box. During this time, feed the parents a variety of soft foods such as corn, crushed boiled eggs, and pellets.
Around four weeks, the babies will be curious and peek outside their nesting box. Most start exploring their surroundings and some babies will not leave the box until five weeks. Once the chicks are confident enough to step outside the box, the female and male will encourage them to fly. These babies are now called fledglings and can depend on their parents for up to 7 weeks before they are weaned (eating of their own).
After the chicks are completely independent, they should be removed and placed into a flight cage. The used nesting box should immediately be cleaned and put away until you decide to breed again. Parakeets should be allowed to breed twice a year followed by a years break afterwards.
Some Do's and Don'ts of Budgie Breeding:
Do's:
Use clean nest boxes, preferably washed out and disinfected at the end of the previous breeding season. Dirty boxes can carry germs which can live for years and these germs can infect eggs and chicks with disastrous results. Preferably use cardboard nest boxes which can be disposed of after use.
The effect of using a clean nest box is nullified if the box, concave and bedding are allowed to become soiled. Dirty bedding should be replaced as required, once the full round has been laid most hens will not be too disturbed by this. If no bedding is used the concave should be washed regularly, particularly once the chicks start hatching otherwise dirt which accumulates on it can cause illness and death. The box should be thoroughly washed and disinfected between rounds if there is gap between the chicks leaving the nest and the beginning of the next round. If sawdust or shavings are used, these should be exposed to the air for a few days before being put in the nestbox.
If, in spite of the fancier's best efforts, some eggs become soiled, attempts should be made to clean them, otherwise germs can get into the eggs from this dirt. Eggs can be cleaned by putting in water at 40 to 42C (the temperature is critical, use a thermometer) then gently wash them with a sponge while using disposable plastic gloves to hold them.
Having got the hygiene of the breeding environment right what should be done about the prospective parents? Make sure that the birds are in breeding condition, there is little point in pairing birds not in the peak of condition. This is not as easy as it sounds in that one can usually tell if the hens are fit, more difficulty can be experienced with the cocks. Well-fed healthy cocks are only fertile for approximately 6 months each year for a few weeks at a time. Telling when these fertile periods are is not easy even with the experienced eye. If required, cocks can be checked by a veterinary surgeon to see if they are in one of their fertile periods.
Both cocks and hens should, if at all buff, have the large body contour feathers cut off, as during mating these feathers can slide over the vent and stop proper pairing. The feathers should not be plucked because this is painful and they will also re-grow over the breeding period. There is no truth in the old wives' tale of the guide feathers which are supposed to assist the cock in locating the hen's vent.
Allow the parent birds as much exercise as possible which means using the biggest breeding cages that your bird room will allow. Some recent work from the USA has demonstrated that, all other things being equal, the more exercise the birds have, the greater will be the number of eggs which hatch. In the American paper, the author got the best results with birds he forced to fly by chasing them about - I'm not sure if I would recommend this however!
Budgies are birds which form quite strong pair-bonds and if these are "ignored" or not broken, the number of eggs produced can be low. Ideally hens and cocks should be kept separate when not being used for breeding and preferably out of earshot as the pair-bond can be maintained by the birds' calls.
Provided that a balanced diet is fed - preferably a commercial one such as Trill, there is no need for many of the fancy diets fed. If you want to make up your own food use a good quality mixed canary and millet with a protein supplement and a proprietary vitamin and mineral mix. There can be problems in hard water areas, in as much as birds given this to drink can produce eggs with thick shells and sometimes chicks have difficulty hatching from these, so that bottled or boiled water is preferable during the breeding season.
Finally do keep records, not only of the number of chicks which hatch but also if a particular pair does not produce chicks or if failure to hatch is due to clear eggs or dead-in-shells. This will help not only in identifying infertile birds but also indicate where problems may be so that if advice is sought (as it should be if the breeding season does not come up to expectations), these records will be available to help amend the situation.
Don'ts
Many don'ts are the opposite of do's but there are a few specific things which should be avoided.
Budgies will breed over a wide range of temperatures, in fact apart from the comfort of the fancier and to stop the water in the drinkers freezing, there is probably no need to provide heat in the winter. What the birds will not tolerate is wide temperature fluctuations; birds kept in greenhouse type buildings which get very hot by day and very cold at night will not breed satisfactorily
Do not handle eggs. Many fanciers handle eggs frequently and when asked why, few are able to give good reasons. The main reason why they should not be handled is that germs, which all fanciers have on skin, however much it is washed, can get into the egg and cause dead-in-shell. If you feel you must handle the eggs or if you need to keep the nest box clean, use cheap disposable plastic gloves or the special egg handling forceps. To see if eggs are clear they can be examined in the nest with one of the torches produced for the purpose.
Fanciers often mark eggs (which also involves handling the eggs) to make sure that the eggs hatch when they are due. Personally, I believe that a note on the cage record card will do as well. The problem with many markers is that their base is spirit which can get into the egg and may kill the developing chick. If you feel you must mark eggs use soft pencils grade 2B or 3B, which does as well and poses no hazard to the chicks.
Handling and marking eggs does disturb some hens which may lead to chilling of eggs, and if done frequently can lead to eggs drying out which can result in chicks dying or not being able to hatch, or the hatching of weak chicks.
Some fanciers like to increase the humidity in nest boxes but in most circumstances there is no need to do this. However if it is done, one should use moistened peat or sponges under the bedding or concave. The bedding itself should not be moistened (except possibly just before the eggs hatch) as it can stop eggs hatching by stopping or slowing the evaporation of water through the shell. This has to take place as eggs have to lose a fixed amount of water during incubation, if too little or too much is lost, problems result.
You should avoid interbreeding and line breeding It will lead to weak deformed chicks.
Sticking to these do's and don'ts will not solve all the breeding difficulties with budgerigars, but will help in many cases. Experience indicates that if they are followed breeding results generally improve. The major difficulty they will not solve, is where abnormal eggs are laid, shell abnormalities at the microscopic level, not seen with the naked eye, are a problem awaiting a solution. It will also not improve the quality of the chicks, as this is largely genetically determined. Female budgerigars have the potential to produce several hundred eggs during their lifetime and all of these can, potentially, produce chicks - if they all did, that would pose a problem of what to do with all the chicks. We are a long way from this yet but a few limited steps in that direction would only be of advantage to the fancier.
Picking mature parakeets for your breeding program can be done by following these three rules.
1.) The eyes of mature parakeets will exhibit white irises.
2.) Their beaks will be solid colors of brown, beige, or tan. Young Budgies will have small patches of black on their beaks.
3.) The cere, or skin above the nose or nostrils, will not be pink. A male Budgie’s cere will be blue and a female’s will be brown.
If the age of the Budgie is still not evident or you are unsure, ask the breeder who sold you the bird. Most breeders keep detailed records of their birds.
Budgie Breeding Supplies:
Breeding Cage
Nesting Box
Bedding (Pine Shavings, Avoid Cedar Because It Will Cause Respiratory Problems)
Brooder (Incubator)
When choosing the right supplies for your Budgie, be sure to think ahead. Thinking ahead means using equipment that can easily be cleaned and disinfected. A breeding cage should be used with trays that can be removed, a grill to avoid the birds from stepping on their feces, and doors for easy access.
The nesting box should be chosen carefully. The ideal box is one that can be hung outside the cage for easy access to the babies. A breeder often needs to band the chick’s legs and observe the development of the babies. A nesting box that is hung inside the cage should not be used. These boxes are quickly used as platforms for the courting parents, and as a result, covered with feces.
The bedding of the nesting box is also important. It provides traction for the babies and prevents any growth deformities such as splayed legs (legs that grow outward rather then their natural position). The bedding should be cedar or pine shavings. Some breeders choose to change the bedding once the chicks start to feather out; however, this can cause the mother to abandon the nest. If the bedding is changed, it is important to block the entrance hole so the mother cannot enter the nesting box. Place the babies inside a brooder and quickly remove the bedding and scrape out any droppings. When the nesting box is clean, put the babies back and keep an eye on them to ensure the mother has resumed her duties.
The perches and dishes should also be arranged correctly. Bowls should not be placed under perches and perches not above bowls. Contaminated food and water can cause serious croup infections with the chicks.
Budgie Courting & Mating: Once the Budgies have been selected and the proper equipment has been purchased, the birds should start to court. During the courting process, the male Budgie will start to vocalize and dance. This dance and ritual consists of the throat feathers ruffling up, bobbing of the head, and walking back and forth near his mate. This dance excites the female and she begins looking for a cavity to nest. This process will repeat until the female allows the male to mate with her.When the female parakeet is ready to mate, her head will arch back, her wings will slightly open, and her eyes will pin. The male will mount the female and copulating will begin. The female will usually lay her eggs a week or two after mating.
Budgie Incubating and Hatching: The clutch can consist of two to six eggs. Some females will lay more; however, any more than six should be removed. During the duration of the incubation, which is 18 days, the male will feed the hen while she sits. Some males will sit inside the box with the hen. Around 16 or 17 days into incubation, the eggs will have small cracks made by the chicks (called the pip hole). This means hatching can be expected shortly. The chicks are likely to hatch 24 hours after the first pip hole.
Budgie Chicks: Once the chicks hatch, the mother will sit on them. She will begin feeding them a few hours after hatching. The food she feeds them is a concoction of enzymes and cells packed with nutrients to help develop their immune systems. During this period, the chicks will experience rapid growth and will soon start to feather as the weeks pass. The father will asset in feeding the chicks as well. As they get older and can produce their own heat, the female will spend more hours outside the nesting box. During this time, feed the parents a variety of soft foods such as corn, crushed boiled eggs, and pellets.
Around four weeks, the babies will be curious and peek outside their nesting box. Most start exploring their surroundings and some babies will not leave the box until five weeks. Once the chicks are confident enough to step outside the box, the female and male will encourage them to fly. These babies are now called fledglings and can depend on their parents for up to 7 weeks before they are weaned (eating of their own).
After the chicks are completely independent, they should be removed and placed into a flight cage. The used nesting box should immediately be cleaned and put away until you decide to breed again. Parakeets should be allowed to breed twice a year followed by a years break afterwards.
Some Do's and Don'ts of Budgie Breeding:
Do's:
Use clean nest boxes, preferably washed out and disinfected at the end of the previous breeding season. Dirty boxes can carry germs which can live for years and these germs can infect eggs and chicks with disastrous results. Preferably use cardboard nest boxes which can be disposed of after use.
The effect of using a clean nest box is nullified if the box, concave and bedding are allowed to become soiled. Dirty bedding should be replaced as required, once the full round has been laid most hens will not be too disturbed by this. If no bedding is used the concave should be washed regularly, particularly once the chicks start hatching otherwise dirt which accumulates on it can cause illness and death. The box should be thoroughly washed and disinfected between rounds if there is gap between the chicks leaving the nest and the beginning of the next round. If sawdust or shavings are used, these should be exposed to the air for a few days before being put in the nestbox.
If, in spite of the fancier's best efforts, some eggs become soiled, attempts should be made to clean them, otherwise germs can get into the eggs from this dirt. Eggs can be cleaned by putting in water at 40 to 42C (the temperature is critical, use a thermometer) then gently wash them with a sponge while using disposable plastic gloves to hold them.
Having got the hygiene of the breeding environment right what should be done about the prospective parents? Make sure that the birds are in breeding condition, there is little point in pairing birds not in the peak of condition. This is not as easy as it sounds in that one can usually tell if the hens are fit, more difficulty can be experienced with the cocks. Well-fed healthy cocks are only fertile for approximately 6 months each year for a few weeks at a time. Telling when these fertile periods are is not easy even with the experienced eye. If required, cocks can be checked by a veterinary surgeon to see if they are in one of their fertile periods.
Both cocks and hens should, if at all buff, have the large body contour feathers cut off, as during mating these feathers can slide over the vent and stop proper pairing. The feathers should not be plucked because this is painful and they will also re-grow over the breeding period. There is no truth in the old wives' tale of the guide feathers which are supposed to assist the cock in locating the hen's vent.
Allow the parent birds as much exercise as possible which means using the biggest breeding cages that your bird room will allow. Some recent work from the USA has demonstrated that, all other things being equal, the more exercise the birds have, the greater will be the number of eggs which hatch. In the American paper, the author got the best results with birds he forced to fly by chasing them about - I'm not sure if I would recommend this however!
Budgies are birds which form quite strong pair-bonds and if these are "ignored" or not broken, the number of eggs produced can be low. Ideally hens and cocks should be kept separate when not being used for breeding and preferably out of earshot as the pair-bond can be maintained by the birds' calls.
Provided that a balanced diet is fed - preferably a commercial one such as Trill, there is no need for many of the fancy diets fed. If you want to make up your own food use a good quality mixed canary and millet with a protein supplement and a proprietary vitamin and mineral mix. There can be problems in hard water areas, in as much as birds given this to drink can produce eggs with thick shells and sometimes chicks have difficulty hatching from these, so that bottled or boiled water is preferable during the breeding season.
Finally do keep records, not only of the number of chicks which hatch but also if a particular pair does not produce chicks or if failure to hatch is due to clear eggs or dead-in-shells. This will help not only in identifying infertile birds but also indicate where problems may be so that if advice is sought (as it should be if the breeding season does not come up to expectations), these records will be available to help amend the situation.
Don'ts
Many don'ts are the opposite of do's but there are a few specific things which should be avoided.
Budgies will breed over a wide range of temperatures, in fact apart from the comfort of the fancier and to stop the water in the drinkers freezing, there is probably no need to provide heat in the winter. What the birds will not tolerate is wide temperature fluctuations; birds kept in greenhouse type buildings which get very hot by day and very cold at night will not breed satisfactorily
Do not handle eggs. Many fanciers handle eggs frequently and when asked why, few are able to give good reasons. The main reason why they should not be handled is that germs, which all fanciers have on skin, however much it is washed, can get into the egg and cause dead-in-shell. If you feel you must handle the eggs or if you need to keep the nest box clean, use cheap disposable plastic gloves or the special egg handling forceps. To see if eggs are clear they can be examined in the nest with one of the torches produced for the purpose.
Fanciers often mark eggs (which also involves handling the eggs) to make sure that the eggs hatch when they are due. Personally, I believe that a note on the cage record card will do as well. The problem with many markers is that their base is spirit which can get into the egg and may kill the developing chick. If you feel you must mark eggs use soft pencils grade 2B or 3B, which does as well and poses no hazard to the chicks.
Handling and marking eggs does disturb some hens which may lead to chilling of eggs, and if done frequently can lead to eggs drying out which can result in chicks dying or not being able to hatch, or the hatching of weak chicks.
Some fanciers like to increase the humidity in nest boxes but in most circumstances there is no need to do this. However if it is done, one should use moistened peat or sponges under the bedding or concave. The bedding itself should not be moistened (except possibly just before the eggs hatch) as it can stop eggs hatching by stopping or slowing the evaporation of water through the shell. This has to take place as eggs have to lose a fixed amount of water during incubation, if too little or too much is lost, problems result.
You should avoid interbreeding and line breeding It will lead to weak deformed chicks.
Sticking to these do's and don'ts will not solve all the breeding difficulties with budgerigars, but will help in many cases. Experience indicates that if they are followed breeding results generally improve. The major difficulty they will not solve, is where abnormal eggs are laid, shell abnormalities at the microscopic level, not seen with the naked eye, are a problem awaiting a solution. It will also not improve the quality of the chicks, as this is largely genetically determined. Female budgerigars have the potential to produce several hundred eggs during their lifetime and all of these can, potentially, produce chicks - if they all did, that would pose a problem of what to do with all the chicks. We are a long way from this yet but a few limited steps in that direction would only be of advantage to the fancier.
